✅ How to make a catch belt for fruit trees with your own hands against ants and aphids

Anti-ant hunting belt - a reliable and cheap means for protecting fruit trees

If ants attacked your garden in early spring, you can simply spray the trees with insecticide and forget about insects for a long time. But in the summer, when the harvest is ripe, this option will not work and it is more advisable to use an ant hunting belt. This is an equally effective remedy, and against other pests too. In addition, it is absolutely safe both for the future harvest and for the gardeners themselves, and it will cost you little, unlike good chemicals. To make belts, they often use improvised means that are found in every home. What is such a belt, how does it “work” and what can it be made of?

How does a catch belt work?

Some gardeners prefer not to touch the ants, claiming that they are useful for the garden.
On the one hand, this is true, because thanks to them you can get rid of various small insects. The ants eat them and prevent them from reproducing. But at the same time, they themselves introduce one of the most unwanted pests into the garden - aphids. If you leave everything as it is, you will soon not recognize your trees. Aphids will stick to the leaves, especially young ones, and will not allow the crops to develop normally. Therefore, fighting ants is not only possible, but also necessary. The main purpose of the belt is to prevent insects from climbing up the trunk to the crown of the tree, to the leaves and fruits.

Depending on the technology and materials of manufacture, belts have different effects:

they simply serve as a barrier that the ants cannot overcome;
act as a kind of trap into which insects that climb onto the trunks fall.

The purpose of using trapping belts on fruit trees

Depending on the design, such protection of fruit trees from pests allows:

collect living insects moving from the soil to the crown, so that the summer resident can then destroy them;
Protect caterpillars, ants, beetles or larvae with a sticky substance or insecticide applied to the belt.

Due to the fact that the belt can be on the tree from early spring until late autumn, it is effective against not only those insects that move to the crown from the ground surface or descend down for further settlement. It will help to significantly reduce the population of all kinds of larvae that are for the time being hidden under the bark of a cherry, pear, apple or other tree.

This fully applies to the fight against the flower beetle on pear and apple fruit trees. The larvae laid by small beetles destroy the buds from the inside, as a result of which the number of ovaries decreases significantly.

Another enemy of the garden is the bark beetle. Its larvae make strange passages under the bark, weakening the tree and even leading to its death. How to fight bark beetle on fruit trees? In addition to the use of insecticides, which are not always safe, during the period of reproduction and emergence of the pest, you can use adhesive-based trapping belts that stop crawling insects.

Useful properties and contraindications of hawthorn

The fruit trees, protected by their own hands, owe only to the hunting belts that during the spring-summer season the number of many crawling insects has significantly decreased. But is it possible to control aphids on fruit trees based on the properties of trapping structures?

Yes, although aphids can fly from plant to plant, they are mostly carried by ants. That is why their accumulations on young succulent shoots, leaf petioles and buds are so widespread. If you control the ants, then the number of aphids will seriously decrease.

Anti-ant hunting belt: manufacturing options

There are many ways to “dress” trees with protective clothing, and they are all effective in their own way.

For example, you can make a belt from the following materials and components:

Vegetable oil. Cut a long strip from an old cotton T-shirt. Moisten it generously with oil and tie it around the trunk. Ants do not like this smell, which, moreover, interrupts their own, and will not rise above the waist. Periodically moisten it with oil so that the belt is always moist and fragrant. You can also make a trap belt from oil. Wrap a wide piece of rubber around the tree and glue the ends together. Fold the bottom of the rubber up to create a funnel. All that remains is to pour oil into it, and the ants will drown there.
Strips of paper, burlap, glass wool, padding polyester. The idea is to make something like a skirt on the trunk, forming a funnel. When crawling to it, the insects will run into a barrier and will not be able to overcome it. You can make a funnel directed downward (to protect against ants climbing the tree) or upward (from those who will descend). Don't forget to check your belts and clear them of ants.
Resin, tar. Wrap the barrel with burlap and apply the selected component to it. The pests will stick and die.

Anti-ant trapping belts will be most effective if they are installed in a timely manner. Try to have time to tie the trees in early spring, before the leaves appear and when the harvest is ripe.

If you wish, you can buy ready-made ribbon belts with an adhesive trap. If chemistry gives you more confidence, wrap the trunks with cloth and treat it with any insecticide. Instead, you can also use special preparations, such as Creolin or aerosol glue.

Trap belt in the fight against insect pests

05/04/2017 Each opening of the gardening season, as a rule, is associated with the pleasant concerns of gardeners who, in anticipation of a bountiful harvest, are happy to do spring work. Fruit trees become prettier and, basking in the sun, expose their crowns strewn with lush flowers to the warm breeze.

Alas, the idyll is spoiled by hordes of harmful insects that have come from nowhere, who, climbing the trunks and branches of trees, try to sneak into the tasty young leaves, flowers and tender succulent ovaries.

Experienced gardeners know how to protect fruit trees from the invasion of hated insects, installing trapping belts on the trunks in advance, designed to protect the garden from crawling pests.

Catching belts work most effectively against those types of insects that overwinter in the ground, under carrion or rotten leaves, and with the arrival of spring, again try to climb a tree in search of food. These insects include various types of codling moths, beetle moths, goose beetles, beetles of the weevil family, other flower beetles and garden ants.

The catching belt can perform two functions:

· The first, when the belt becomes a barrier for crawling insects, preventing them from moving up the trunk (for this purpose, sometimes the belts are made of smooth material so that the insect cannot catch its paws on a slippery surface, or the very shape of the belt does not allow the insect to get up).

· The second, when the belt is intended for collecting and destroying insects.

You can either choose ready-made catching belts in gardening stores or, with your own hands, make them yourself.

There are three main types of hunting belts.

Dry hunting belts

Dry hunting belts have one undeniable advantage - they are very easy to make with your own hands from ordinary scrap materials. They are not only easy to make, since they allow you to use what is currently at hand (old matting, burlap, rags, straw, plastic film, cardboard, other materials), but they are also environmentally safe, which is very important.

In addition, installing dry belts allows you to save a lot of time, which is very important for busy people who visit the garden only from time to time and can only devote weekends or holidays to gardening work.

The recipe for making a dry hunting belt is simple. We cut the material (choose any of the above) into wide strips, wrap it around the stamp on the bottom of the barrel and that’s it.

The belt should be placed approximately fifty centimeters from the ground. As insects accumulate, the belt is cleared of pests, which are immediately destroyed. Inspection and extermination of crawling insects must be done at least once a week, removing live insects and pupae.

The most popular type of dry belt is the so-called “funnel”. A cardboard or paper sheet (about twenty centimeters wide) must be wrapped around the trunk to form a cone in the form of a skirt, for which the upper part of the sheet is intercepted with twine, twine, tape, insulating tape, thin wire or any other material, so that the upper part the sheet turned out to be tightly pressed to the stem, and the bottom (socket) looked down. The upper part of the belt, for reliability (so that insects cannot crawl into the cracks), must be thoroughly coated with plasticine or clay.

You can often find belts of this kind made from plastic PET bottles. The smooth surface of the bottle prevents insects from climbing the tree and sliding down.

Another simple model of an effective belt is made from sheets of thin (about three to four centimeters) rubber. The rubber is cut into strips, which are then wrapped around the barrel, intercepting the bottom so that it looks like a collar. Both ends of the rubber are glued together, and a little vegetable oil or glue that does not dry for a long time is poured into the resulting container. Such a “collar” will become an insurmountable barrier for most pests.

The big advantage of a rubber belt is that it can be used repeatedly.

Some gardeners, for greater reliability, combine two in one, both a “collar” and a “funnel”, which makes the belt double-sided and more effective.

Sometimes materials such as foam rubber or glass wool are used to make catching belts, which have the excellent property of effectively trapping insects. If these materials are wrapped on top with smooth stretch film or coated with glue, the enemy will definitely not get through.

Before placing a belt on the trunk or skeletal branches of trees, they must be thoroughly cleaned of dead bark, and it is advisable to cover deep cracks with clay.

It is necessary to install catching belts in advance, even before the buds swell, because pests such as the apple blossom beetle wake up early.

Hunting belts impregnated with insecticides (pesticides)

These belts are not much different from other dry models, except that they are pre-impregnated with a toxic chemical composition. For this purpose, as a rule, exactly those types of insecticides are used that are intended to combat the above pests and precisely during their mass invasion.

When purchasing hunting belts of this type in stores, before installing them, be sure to carefully read the instructions and apply safety precautions.

Sticky (glue) hunting belts

These belts differ only in that their surface is treated with a special adhesive substance (sometimes anti-mouse glue is used for this purpose).

The main condition is that the glue must retain its adhesive ability for a long time and withstand any weather conditions for a long time, that is, withstand factors such as rain, wind and sun.

But you shouldn’t place high hopes on the use of catch belts for garden defense. They are ineffective in the fight against flying insects, so pest control must be comprehensive, using other means of protecting fruit trees.

Hunting belts have demonstrated the greatest effectiveness in the fight against those insects that not only climb up the tree trunk, but also those that descend from the tree for wintering. Thus, the belts play the role of a two-way trap, preventing insects from going up or down.

In the southern regions, where the codling moth manages to produce two generations of offspring, it is necessary to ensure that the belts work “right up to” the month of July inclusive, which will be a good preventive measure in the fight against this pest and will protect the garden from it.

It must be remembered that one hundred percent effectiveness can only be achieved by using belts that have been treated with pesticides (pesticides).

Why do they make a tree catcher?

Hunting belts are made to prevent ants from breeding aphids, the most dangerous pest of garden plots. Being symbiotes, ants and aphids “occupy” fruit trees (apple trees, pears, plums) and berry bushes (currants, gooseberries). Numerous aphids curl leaves, destroy shoots, and significantly impair quality and yield. This ultimately leads to the death of entire branches, and ultimately the entire fruit tree.

Ants treat it with reverence and care - they actively protect, spread and even carry aphids away for the winter. Moreover, they breed it solely for pleasure, to obtain the “sweet nectar” that aphids secrete.

In addition to aphids, ants also breed copperheads, scale insects, and cicadas, i.e. those insects that secrete large quantities of honeydew - “sweet nectar”.

When to apply and remove fishing belts

Attaching trapping belts to trees (stone, pome and ornamental) should be done after the snow melts, when the ground begins to thaw. In the first days of real, not calendar spring, hibernating pests awaken in the upper layers of the soil and go in search of housing and food. In the middle zone, this period occurs in the second half of April; in other regions it is worth looking at the weather conditions and soil conditions.

It is not necessary to remove catching belts from trees at the same time. From stone fruits they are removed after harvesting, and from pome and ornamental fruits - no earlier than the end of October. The fact is that in the crown of apple, pear, etc. The winter moth loves to lay eggs. After this, she goes down for the winter, and it is at this moment that she can be caught.

What types of insect repellent belts are there?

Adhesive catching belts

The belt is applied to the wood with special glue

The hunting belt is applied to the tree bark with a special, especially sticky and viscous glue against insects and rodents. This glue is produced in tubes - trademarks “Chisty Dom”, “ALT”, “Napoval”, “Domovoy”, “EUROGARD”, “ECOTRAP”, “ARGUS”, etc.

The glue is made on a polymer base, which contains:

polyisobutylene (a chemically inactive polymer component that provides moisture resistance);
polybutylene (providing viscosity, thermoplasticity and fire resistance);
cycloisan (acting as a catalyst - enhances the effect of the adhesive substance).

Belt in the form of ready-made adhesive strips

Ready-made catching belts are also produced - these are strips of fabric or non-woven material coated with an adhesive composition. Trademark “Your Economy”, “No-guest”, “ARGUS”, “Kapkan”, “Inta-Vir”, etc.

Adhesive spray

Special garden adhesive aerosol is represented by the Green Belt trademark - a 400 ml container. You can, in principle, use any universal adhesive in aerosol form.

The main advantage of the aerosol is uniform and economical spraying. There is enough glue in the can to make more than ten hunting belts. The long shelf life will allow you to use the aerosol for more than one year.

Protective oil belts

Ants do not like to overcome oil barriers. The belt is made with vegetable oil on wood, palm width (10-12cm). You can use any vegetable oil - sunflower, linseed, hemp, etc. You can add stove soot to the oil.

It is allowed to alternate glue strips with oil strips - this results in the so-called “double protection”.

"Repeal" belts

You can make your own and “repellent” belts. To do this, tie tree trunks with strips of fabric soaked in kerosene, diesel fuel or carbolic solution. After 2-3 weeks, it is necessary to re-soak the fabric with kerosene.

This method is not recommended for young trees to avoid burns. In this case, you can place a cloth soaked in kerosene or diesel fuel at the base of the tree. The pungent smell will completely repel insects.

What are the varieties?

There are several types of traps:

sticky;
poisonous;
dry.

Advantages of each type:

Glue. The material is fixed around the barrel and thickly coated with non-drying glue. The most commonly used is intended for rodents. The disadvantage is that everything alive sticks to the belt. Beneficial insects are also caught in the trap along with pests.

Funnel-shaped. The belt is secured in the form of a cone. The wide side is placed at the bottom, and at the top they ensure a tight fit of the material to the surface of the barrel. To do this, the joint is coated with clay and tied with rope. To achieve maximum effect, the material is impregnated with an insecticidal solution. The pests, moving upward, find themselves inside the funnel and die due to the action of the poison.
Rubber funnel with vegetable oil. A strip is cut out of rubber, then secured by first bending the edges and filling it with an oil solution. Glue using rubber glue. The insects get caught in the oil, from which they cannot escape, and as a result they die.

Conclusions and recommendations

1.Environmentally friendly method, which eliminates the use of chemical pesticides

2. Making catching belts does not require special agrotechnical skills and knowledge; even a novice gardener can handle it

3. The adhesive tree catching belt is absolutely non-toxic and has no odor.

4.Efficiency - this method of protecting fruit trees significantly reduces the number of aphids and other sucking insect pests in the garden.

5.The use of oil and “repellent” belts is an effective “folk” method of getting rid of ants, .

6. Hunting belts should be made annually; the best time is early spring.

Content

Purpose of hunting belts
Types of hunting belts
a) Adhesive (sticky) tree catching belt
b) Protective hunting belt for trees
c) Insecticide-impregnated and “repellent” belts
How to make a catch belt yourself
Advantages and disadvantages of using insect traps for trees

A catching belt is a simple and at the same time very effective way to protect fruit trees from insect pests. The material discusses the purpose, types of hunting belts, the procedure for their independent production, etc.

The principle of operation of the trap belt

This method of pest control has been known since ancient times - it is hundreds of years old. But this, believe me, does not make it any less effective. With its regular use, the number of pests of fruit trees in the garden is significantly reduced.

Such traps are especially effective against caterpillars, for example, leaf rollers. Capable of stopping hunting rings and adult insects - weevils, fruit moths, whiteflies, beetles or geese, as well as ants that can populate the foliage of trees with entire colonies of aphids.

What is a catch belt and its purpose

To protect garden trees, including ornamental ones, the mechanical method of stopping insects has been used for a long time. The most common and effective is considered to be the installation of a trapping belt, a means that protects the plant from ants, caterpillars, and other insects moving along the tree trunk. The effectiveness of protection against pests by such a passive method has been proven in practice - many types of garden pests travel a long way from the crown of a tree along the trunk to the grass cover for reproduction, and after the appearance of a new generation, the insects move back in search of food.

This flow can only be stopped by a trap tightly attached to the trunk - a trapping belt. This simple device made of paper, polyethylene or natural materials effectively fights the following types of pests:

Weevils;
Ticks;
Whiteflies;
Different types of flower beetles;
Aphids;
Caterpillars.

What does a trapping belt for trees look like?
A trapping belt for trees has several advantages compared to other types of garden pest control - you can make it yourself, it is safe to use for humans, trees and animals, the trap is very effective. Another positive aspect of this type of fight is that catching belts for fruit trees can be made with your own hands from scrap materials, and it is not necessary to use expensive drugs or complex devices.

Types of belts

Sticky trap in the form of a gate

Based on the methods used to trap insects, all trapping belts are divided into 3 groups:

Hunting belt for wood in the form of a skirt

skirts : its top is tightly wound to the tree trunk, while the lower, wider part remains free
double-sided funnel : traps of this shape are more effective, because they are able to trap insects moving in different directions; such devices are often made from cardboard that can hold its shape; attach a double-sided funnel to the trunk, tying it in the central part
gate : making a hunting belt of this shape is very simple - the trunk is simply tightly wrapped with a strip of fabric, non-woven fabric or film, fastened in two places with a rope or twine

Self-made hunting belts

There are varieties of hunting belts that you can make yourself. They can be completely simple or tricky, with bait. But anyone can make them, almost any of the presented mechanisms.

Primitive funnel

This mechanism operates simply, quickly and effectively. For production you will need:

thick paper or cardboard;
twine or rope;
plasticine or adhesive material.

Hunting belt with a funnel.

Manufacturing is incredibly simple:

Paper is wrapped around the barrel so that a funnel emerges, with the wide side down.
The top should fit tightly, it needs to be coated so that there is no passage.
Secure it around the trunk, pressing it with a rope.

It works simply and reliably. Insects fall into the funnel, but cannot get out. It is necessary to check periodically for filling.

Complex funnel

The lower part is made according to the same principle, and the same funnel is made at the top. But a cloth soaked in insecticide is placed in the upper part. So insects that come down from above will get trapped and die. This mechanism needs to be checked more often than a regular one.

Collar

A slightly more tricky mechanism that can only be done if you prepare correctly. To create a gate trap you need:

soft rubber;
glue that can hold it together;
oil.

It is necessary to make the press so that it is attached as tightly as possible to the trunk. Step-by-step manufacturing process:

Measure the trunk and cut the elastic so that it fits as tightly as possible.
Please note that the width should be 30-40 cm. Rubber belt.
Wrap the barrel and connect the rubber, it is best to glue it, but options are possible.
Pull the bottom of the elastic band, which is held very tightly, upward to form a roller.
Place sunflower or machine oil inside.
Periodically add liquid to the funnel and remove dead pests.

Tight belt

The process is simple, although the view is not very pleasant. Works quickly and efficiently. The barrel is tightly wrapped with glass wool or foam rubber, and secured with stretch film, tape or any other material.

The principle of operation is simple - insects get into dense material and get stuck there. They die because they can't get out. It needs to be changed more often than previous types, every 10-14 days.

Tight catching belt.

Sticky trap

This method is often combined with the previous ones, but can also be used separately. All beetles fall into the Velcro and die there. To prepare, you only need a base to enclose the trunk and a sticky layer.

The material is wrapped around the trunk and firmly secured.
Adhesive hunting belt.
Cover with sticky glue or other material.
It needs to be changed as it dries out.
Sink or burn filled traps to kill pests.

What glue to use

You can use purchased glue options. But gardeners can do it themselves. There are three different recipes.

Option 1

Rosin and castor oil should be mixed in a ratio of 5:7, boil over low heat for 1-2 hours until it thickens.

Option 2

Heat 200 g of vegetable oil, add 100 grams of resin and grease, mix and heat.

Option 3

Cook the mistletoe berries slowly, stirring until you get a smooth paste. Strain and add a little oil to the slime.

Poison Trap

This is a trap impregnated with a liquid insecticidal preparation, like Aktara or Iskra. Soak part of the fabric with a solution of a chemical preparation and attach it to the trunk. It is necessary that the fabric be wrapped with a film that will prevent evaporation.

It is better to change the belt once a month, and soak it as it dries.

When is the best time to set traps?

Trapping belts are wrapped and then secured to the trunk using twine or rope in early spring, in March, before pests emerge from the soil.

This must be done before the kidneys awaken, at a time when the first thawed patches appear and the ambient temperature does not reach 5-6 C.

To enhance the effect, hunting belts are often treated with sticky solutions or insecticides.

Ant Traps

They are capable of neutralizing such devices and pests descending from trees for further settlement. Therefore, traps should not be removed after the onset of warm weather. They should be on tree trunks all season from March to October.

The belts are removed only after the first frost. It is not recommended to leave them on trees over the winter - frozen traps can damage the plant bark. After all, even a small amount of moisture accumulated under the fishing belt often leads to the formation of many microcracks.

They are not removed in the fall only in the southern regions of Russia - insects here are able to awaken and be active at any time.

Features of application

When controlling pests, some features are taken into account:

In the places where the trap is set, the dead bark is removed.
All cracks on the trunk are covered with clay. Otherwise, at the end of the summer season, insects will roost in the cracks and lay offspring.
The belt is installed until the kidneys swell. This helps preserve the harvest from the flower beetle on apple trees.
When flower beetles begin to appear, traps need to be checked frequently. The caught insects are knocked down onto a film previously placed under the plant. Then they are collected and burned.
At the end of autumn, the traps are removed and burned.

Any of the listed options will reliably protect the plantings from possible pests. With the annual production of traps, apple trees will constantly delight you with an abundant and high-quality harvest.

Advantages and disadvantages

The most important advantage of fishing belts is their absolute environmental safety. After all, even when using insecticides, traps are applied to a limited space.

Spraying with pesticides, especially during pest infestations, has to be carried out repeatedly, and over the entire crown of the tree. If you find a mass appearance of leafhoppers, fruit moths, and weevils at the beginning of summer, spraying the plants is out of the question. It is prohibited to do this during flowering.
Plus, toxic substances are dangerous not only for pests, but also for the plants themselves and people who will eat the fruits in the future. Plus, even several years after treatment, pesticides washed off from foliage or plant trunks by rain remain in the soil. Hunting belts are absolutely harmless and free from all these disadvantages.

Glass wool hunting belt

Another advantage of such devices is their ease of manufacture. You can make a catching belt for trees in literally a matter of minutes. No material costs will be required. Moreover, you can catch a lot of insects using such a trap.

The disadvantage of such devices is the high labor intensity of the work. If there is a large number of areas occupied by fruit crops, you will need to not only attach a trap to each of them.
It is necessary to periodically walk around the entire area, replacing devices. That is why trapping belts are used more often in small areas. The second disadvantage of using adhesive or poisonous tapes is the likelihood of death of insects beneficial to nature - bees, ladybugs, etc.

Dry catch rings

Such belts are intended for catching insects in special traps. To do this, a strip of cardboard or film in the form of a skirt or funnel is attached to the tree trunk. Its upper part is tightly wound with twine to the tree trunk so that insects do not have the opportunity to get through small holes.

Dry trap belts

Beetles or caterpillars trying to climb up the canopy encounter an obstacle that is insurmountable for them. Dry trapping belts work very effectively on apple trees suffering from codling moths. This pest can be easily detained with the help of such traps.

They should be checked more often than poisonous or sticky ones - at least once a week. After all, they detain pests only for a while. Insects caught in it can get out safely.

You can also make a hunting belt in the form of a “skirt” from rubber. To do this, the cut blank is wrapped around the barrel. To connect the “skirt” seam, it is coated with wood glue. For reliability, the resulting cavity can be filled with any viscous liquid, for example, oil or glue.

Such protection will last for a long time, so you will need to check the trap less often. As the trunk grows, the rubber belt will stretch. Over time, if it rises with the trunk, it can only be pulled down a little. Only the oil or adhesive composition will have to be changed periodically. The old one can be removed with a regular rag.

Before attaching the catch ring, be sure to clear the trunk of old, loose bark. In this case, the device will fit it more tightly. The remaining cracks can be covered with plasticine or clay.

Apple tree pests and how to get rid of them

Garden parasites try to gnaw at the apple tree. Every gardener should know how to protect their garden and eliminate pests.

codling moth

The apple codling moth is a small butterfly with a gray-brown color. The size of the insect's wings reaches 2 cm. The butterfly does not pose any particular danger; it does not eat fruits, as the name might suggest, but breeds caterpillars. But small parasites will appear at the moment when the apples are already hanging on the tree. Fight pests with improvised means.

Fermented compote is left near the tree. It is advisable to pour the drink into shallow containers. By the end of the day there will be a ton of butterflies on the surface. This method helps to at least slightly reduce the number of moths.
You can prepare a decoction of hot pepper. Take 6 pepper pods, throw them into a pan and fill them with water. Place the pan on the stove and bring to a boil. Then add 100 g of the finished broth to 5 liters of water.
Traditional treatment does not always help. Biological agents help get rid of the disease. The best include bitoxibacillin and lepidocide. But as a supplement, you can use chemicals against the moth: Decis, Kinmiks, Karbofos.

codling moth

How does the birch root system work?

Sawfly

The sawfly is somewhat similar to the previous pest. It also eats fruits, gnawing out the pulp, and is able to do this at an early stage of development (the appearance of the ovary). To prevent the destruction of the embryo, trees are sprayed with folk remedies.

An infusion of wormwood is very simple to prepare. Add crushed wormwood to 1 bucket of water. The homemade infusion should be left for 2 days in a dark place.
To prepare mustard infusion you will need 100 g of mustard and 5 liters of water. The components are combined, mixed and left for half a day.

You can treat the trunk, leaves and roots with Alterr or Vantex, and not a trace of the sawfly will remain.

Sawfly

Medyanitsa

The body length of the honeydew reaches 2.5 mm. The female pest lays eggs directly on trees. To prevent the worm, orchards are treated with home remedies.

Take 300 g of tobacco and add it to a bucket of water. Boil a little and cool. Add 50 g of soap to the cooled infusion.
To prepare the following composition, you will need to chop the bird cherry branches: 300 g of the prepared raw material is poured into a bucket, filled with water and set to boil for 30 minutes.

Important! Any chemicals are suitable (for example, dimethoate, kemifosom, confidor), but they can be used 1 week before the buds open. After some time, the procedure should be repeated.

Medyanitsa

Shchitovka

Green larvae 3 mm long often appear on apple trees. This is a scale insect, which is considered the laziest insect. On an adult apple tree it eats up the bark and makes a hole. Throughout the development of the tree, the insect feeds on apple juice through a hole in one place. If there is a large concentration of beetles, the tree grows poorly and the fruits become deformed. To get rid of an insect mechanically, you need:

carry out regular pruning;
clear the trunk of old bark;
Wash off pests from the tender bark with soapy water.

You can get rid of black bugs on an apple tree in several stages. Before the buds open, the trees are treated with a special composition (7 g of calcined salt + 70 g of green soap + 3 liters of water). Alternatively, choose the drugs DNOC or nitrafen. In case of the appearance of a rodent, fly or other harmful insects, use karbofos, phosphamide, actelik.

Shchitovka

Aphid

Aphids are small insects that attack any plant in the garden. It's practically invisible. It seems like a small parasite, but it brings a lot of problems: the affected leaves curl, the shoots dry out, the buds become deformed.

You can use the simplest method: take a hose with water and turn on high pressure, completely walking through the foliage. This will wash away the pests.
Or make an effective remedy (dilute 100 g of mustard powder in 1 bucket of water) and spray the trees.

But all these are temporary measures, because when the foliage dries out, the aphids may appear again. To completely destroy it, oleocuprite and nitrafen are used as an additional method. After flowering, actara, corsair, and varant are used.

Aphid

Flower beetle

The apple flower beetle is popularly called a weevil; it feeds on the buds and buds of fruit trees, in particular apple trees. Trees are treated before buds open and before flowering.

Take half a bucket of onion peels and fill it to the brim with hot water, but not boiling water. The composition should stand for 3 hours. If you leave it overnight, then in the morning before use you need to dilute the strong solution with water.
To prepare the pine product you will need 50 g of pine needle concentrate and 1 bucket of water. Mix everything and spray the apple trees.

If folk remedies do not save you, then you can use Fufanon, Iskra and Novaktion.

Flower beetle

Mole

The apple moth resembles an ordinary butterfly, only small in size. Its caterpillars eat the leaves and then spin a web. To combat it, make infusions from potatoes or tomatoes, or use ground pepper (1 teaspoon per 1 bucket of water). The infusion should stand for 2 days before use.

Apple moth

Entobacterin, lepidocide, fozalon or dimilin are used as additional control.

Red tick

This insect is almost invisible on fruit trees. Despite its small size, the small pest destroys leaves. Such mites are not found alone; they attack the plant in whole colonies and can gnaw leaves all day long, leaving behind a web.

Red mite on an apple tree

Apple tree “Wonderful”: characteristics, agricultural cultivation technology

To get rid of them:

Take 500 g of garlic and pass it through a garlic press. The resulting slurry is poured with 1 bucket of water and mixed. After a day you can use it.
Pour 300 g of horse sorrel roots into 5 liters of hot water. Once the composition has cooled, you can spray the leaves.

Of the ready-made preparations, anti-mite, fufafon, and nitrafen have proven themselves to be good.

Bark beetle

Bark beetle on an apple tree

Bark beetle on an apple tree: methods of combating these insects, of which there are several types in nature, help in a variety of ways. They can be noticed immediately after the apple orchard blooms. People call it that because it damages the tree bark. They hibernate under it and devour it. Female apple bark beetles do not die; they can lay eggs several times during the season. How to deal with the harmful bark beetle on an apple tree? The best way is to use copper sulfate.

Ognevka

Moth on an apple tree: how to fight if the trees are affected by this attack? In autumn or spring, all tree trunk circles should be covered with roofing material and old film. You should start from the base of the tree and up to the crown. The trap can be removed in mid-summer. As an alternative, high hilling is suitable.

Mice

Mice usually damage the trunk of a tree. But unlike other rodents, they cause light damage affecting the outer part of the bark. How to save an apple tree if mice have eaten the bark of the tree? If the damage is superficial, the trunk can be tied with polyethylene. When the affected areas dry out, this indicates the tree is healing. If the dying process is irreversible, then it is urgent to replant the bark from a healthy tree.

Mice

After some time, many gardeners again complain that the apple tree has been chewed by mice. What to do if the film did not help? There is another effective way - clay and cow dung. The damaged area is cut off and smeared with clay, and the top is wrapped in cloth, which is regularly moistened with water.

Hares

Apple tree bushes have been gnawed by hares, what should I do? It is urgent to treat the gnawed areas with garden varnish (applied in a thick layer), otherwise the trunks will begin to dry out. If the jumpers remain, then the apple tree can be restored. After treatment, it is better to wrap the barrel with lutrasil, which can be secured with wire.

Ants

Ants on an apple tree

Traditional methods allow you to get rid of ants quickly and effectively. You can use kerosene with carbolic acid. The smell will repel small pests, and the acid will destroy them. To obtain the product, mix 10 liters of water, 400 g of black soap, 1 tbsp. kerosene and 2 tbsp. spoons of acid. The prepared solution is poured into the anthill.

They also make all kinds of traps. How to make trapping belts for ants on an apple tree? Nowadays, almost everyone has a car, so finding an old tire in the garage is not difficult. You need to cut it lengthwise to make several rings.

Next, a trench is made near the infected tree, around the trunk. A tire is placed on top of the trunk and filled with water. Pests will not be able to swim across the “pool” and get to the tree.

Ant traps on trees

You can make catching belts for apple trees with your own hands from ordinary tape. To do this, you need to wrap the belt around the barrel with the adhesive side facing out. Ants, crawling onto a tree, will stick to the tape.

A sticky belt is also made using glue and thick paper. Cut out a rectangle 25 cm wide. Apply glue to one side. A belt is attached 0.5 m upward from the ground. The cracks on both sides are lubricated with clay.

Sticky Hunting Belt

Sticky belts

To create such protection, you will need a strip of fabric or film up to 30 cm wide. Its outer side is coated with liquid resin or a special adhesive composition. It is usually applied in a spiral.

Experienced gardeners on forums advise coating tree catching belts not only with glue, but also with substances that have a strong odor, for example, mothballs. Such devices are considered more effective.

You can also use birch tar. The tape coated with it is tightly wrapped around the trunk, sticky side up. To prevent small pests from getting under the fabric or film, their edges must be folded down.

Traps must be inspected once a week. If the coated surface stops sticking, the belts are replaced with new ones. These rings are most effective against caterpillars and ants.

Regular glue dries quickly, so there is no point in using it. Buy special sticky compounds in the store, for example, non-drying garden compounds of the BioMaster, Vesta, Uniflex, and Ecotrap brands. If garden glues cannot be found, replace them with rodent-catching glue - ALT or Uniflex. It works no worse.

When using pine resin, it is mixed with rosin and petroleum jelly. It is better to use the following proportions: 10:1.2:1.5. The resulting mass is boiled well to form a sticky substance.

To make a sticky hunting belt from tar, it must be mixed with vegetable (preferably burdock) oil in a 2:1 ratio. The mixture is also put on fire and boiled for about 5 hours.